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This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1851. Excerpt:... the latter description to one or two inches each year, thereby ultimately forming them into fruit spurs. After the trees which have been planted out in the borders and treated as dwarfs have borne fruit for seven or more years, if they evince any signs of decay, or cease bearing so'proiusely as formerly, some young trees should be procured, and one of them planted between every two of the old ones, and when these young trees commence bearing, the old ones may be removed and thrown away; thus keeping up a constant succession of good bearing trees. 7.--Pear, Plum, and Cherry Trees. Nearly the same remarks will apply to these as to apple trees, with the exception that plum and cherry trees will not do well as espaliers or dwarfs, but bear best when trained against a wall, or treated as standards. They are extremely unprofitable in small gardens, and should never be cultivated in them except as mere luxuries. A few pear trees might likewise be treated as dwarfs, where desired, but in this case they would require annual pruning. The best and most prolific pears are, for a tall tree, the swan's egg, which will not bear much pruning; the Jargonelle and Marie Louise for walls; and the Marie Louise, Easter Beurre', and the Glout Morceau for dwarf pruned border plants. A few damson or bullace trees along the edge of a garden will not occupy much space, and are generally good bearers. The Morello cherry is useful on a north wall, being an abundant fruiter, and requiring little light. The Bigareau cherry is the finest, where a sunny aspect can be afforded. A Jargonelle pear tree is perhaps the best fruit tree which can be had for covering the end of a house which has either a good or an indifferent aspect. It may be managed as directed for espaliers, or trained in a...