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How does it feel to be in the mouth of a 50-foot tube? To carve a perfect 200-degree turn? To get plowed under a thundering mountain of whitewater?SurfRiders puts readers in the curl with 100 vivid full-color photographs and more than 20 stories by the greatest names in surfing. Chasing the swells from Waimea Bay to South Africa's Cape St. Francis, it brings to life the near-mystical allure of riding the big wave, the rush of shooting the tube, the draw of the pipeline. Along the way, it shows readers the pivotal points of surfing's development, explores the unique beach boy culture its spawned, provides a fascinating look at the evolution of the surfboard (or "gun" as its called) and recounts some of the most outrageous sets ever ridden.In the tradition of Ski Fever! and The Olympic Spirit, this visually stunning book also features tons of sidebars, historic photos and incredible images of today's greatest champions. Designed for both die-hard surfers and landlocked dreamers alike, it is as close to hanging ten in big wave heaven as you can get without getting wet.
This work investigates the cultural and physical phenomenon of big-wave surfing by documenting the experiences of elite riders and the evolution of the sport. The author compiles a collection of narratives and visual records to examine how surfing transitioned from a niche pursuit into a global subculture. By focusing on iconic locations and technical advancements in equipment, the book provides a comprehensive overview of the sport's history and its enduring appeal.
What You Will Find
The text serves as a visual and narrative archive, catering to both enthusiasts and those interested in the history of extreme sports. Its reliance on primary accounts and photographic evidence provides a grounded perspective on the technical and cultural aspects of big-wave riding.
Page Count:
128
Publication Date:
1997-05-01
Publisher:
Harper
ISBN-10:
0006491790
ISBN-13:
9780006491798
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