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Excerpt from Water Waves: The Mathematical Theory With Applications The subject of surface gravity waves has great variety whether regarded from the point of View of the types of physical problem which occur, or from the point of View of the mathematical ideas and methods needed to attack them. The physical problems range from discussion of wave motion over sloping beaches to flood waves in rivers, the motion of ships in a sea-way, free oscillations of enclosed bodies of water such as lakes and harbors, and the propagation of frontal discontinuities in the atmosphere, to mention just a few. The mathematical tools employed comprise just about the whole of the tools developed in the classical linear mathematical physics concerned with partial differential equations, as well as a good part of what has been learned about the nonlinear problems of mathe matical physics. Thus potential theory and the theory of the linear wave equation, together with such tools as conformal mapping and complex variable methods in general, the Laplace and Fourier transform techniques, methods employing a Green's function, integral equations, etc. Are used. The nonlinear problems are of both elliptic and hyperbolic type. In spite of the diversity of the material, the book, is not a collection of disconnected topics, written for specialists, and lacking unity and coherence. Instead, considerable pains have been taken to supply the fundamental background in hydrodynamics and also in some of the mathematics needed and to plan the book in order that it should be as much as possible a self - contained and readable whole. Though the contents of the book are outlined in detail below, it has some point to indicate briefly here its general plan. There are four main parts of the book. About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books. Find more at www.forgottenbooks.com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work. Forgotten Boo