This volume investigates the historical trajectory and cultural significance of the cheongsam as a defining garment for Chinese women throughout the twentieth century. Hazel Clark, an expert in design history, utilizes a multidisciplinary approach to examine how this specific dress evolved from traditional roots into a symbol of modernity. By analyzing the intersection of manufacturing processes, aesthetic design, and shifting gender roles, the author provides a comprehensive framework for understanding the garment's role in shaping Chinese identity.

Scholars and fashion historians frequently cite this work as a foundational text for understanding the intersection of material culture and national identity in Asia. Readers often note the accessible yet rigorous academic approach that balances technical design details with broader sociological insights.