How does the physical and cultural reality of the Mississippi River compare to the romanticized American mythos established by literature and history? Jonathan Raban, an experienced travel writer and critic, utilizes his own solo navigation of the river to examine the contemporary state of the American heartland. By documenting his encounters with the people living along the banks, he tests the validity of the national identity projected by figures like Mark Twain against the pragmatic, often isolated reality of the late 20th-century river communities.

Critics frequently praise the work for its sharp observational prose and its ability to blend personal narrative with cultural critique. Scholars often cite this book as a significant contribution to the travel writing genre, noting the author's skill in capturing the nuances of regional American identity.